Trompe L’Oeil in Palm Beach: The (Honda)/Cognizant Classic, PGA Resort Champions Course, February 29-March 3, 2024
Whether it’s due to the impact of the LIV schism or the lack of designated event status, the 2024 Honda Classic has seemingly lost enough luster that the longest-tenured sponsor on Tour bowed out last year, even with the support of Jack and Barbara Nicklaus. Thus, enter Cognizant. On the wine front, it’s still a case of less than meets the eye, as I’ll explain.
I confess I was a little disappointed by the number of restaurants that didn’t post their wine lists. It left me wondering why, as if the regulars in this playground for multi-millionaires already have their standing tables reserved and there’s no need for restaurants to advertise to the public.
Restaurants
Fortunately for us, they let it all hang out at La Sirena. Maybe they’re just the acknowledged best in town and make their list available as an intimidation factor for the rest of the field. Yes, they have an awesome collection, but I love it when a world-class wine list goes out of its way to offer lower-priced options too. It shows me the establishment has a commitment to making wine more accessible and to viewing it as an integral part of any good meal. Here there are over 100 wines priced $50 or less in two lists, one for the world at large and the other specific to Italian reds. If I were being hyper-critical, I could say their coverage outside of Italy, Bordeaux and California cab/meritage is a little uninspired, like not one chenin blanc, for example. But in Italy and their other regions of strength it’s nothing short of magnificent. The Tuscany section goes on forever. There are small gaps in some off-beat parts of Italy, but I’m being churlish. I’d be happy to fill them in on what’s missing in exchange for a free meal. Note they publish the 96-page list in ebook form in two parts online. It’s a good read.
Flagler Steakhouse at the Breakers is the Joe Frazier to La Sirena’s Ali. Depending on what you’re looking for, it counterpunches successfully in France and holds its own in California. Based on the hotel’s reputation alone, I was expecting it to be overpriced, and unfortunately it is. You have to squint hard to find anything under $150 a bottle, but still, it’s a good list with a lot of exciting wines if you’re on a dowager’s expense account.
The list at Buonasera not surprisingly tilts heavily to Italy and it offers excellent varietal coverage of the country at mostly reasonable prices. For example, you’ll find more aglianico here than you will at La Sirena, and also wines from both Valle d’Aosta and Puglia, so good for them. Reasonable California red wine options can be found, but except for a few champagnes, only one wine on the entire list comes from France-a 2003 Chateau Gloria. Clearly, Francophiles need not apply.
City Cellar Wine Bar and Grill has a compact but nicely diversified list and options in all price ranges. If you are celebrating, there are small verticals of Shafer Hillside Select or Insignia and a few high-end Bordeaux and Super Tuscans to tempt you. Over-reliant in our opinion on “brands,” but steer away from them and you’ll be fine.
No-see-ums. You can get 8 oz. of caviar for $975 at Café L’Europe, but you can’t see the 800 bottle wine list. Good news is you can bring your own for a mere $100 corkage fee, but you’ll have to call the restaurant to make sure they don’t already have it. What about Café Boulud, Buccan, or Renato’s.? Sorry, not happening.
Retail
Hamptons Palm Beach hopefully has more inventory than meets the eye. Their website has an attractive assortment of wine from around the world and some great high-end bottles. However, when you search for say, cabernet sauvignon, it appears they have more than 300 in stock but they only show about 70 online. I’m giving them the benefit of a doubt because they say they have “extensive experience with jet, yacht and estate provisioning,” and I’m really picky about what wines I stock on my yacht.
Virginia Philip Wine Spirits and Academy has a nicely balanced selection of approximately 1000 wines and the distinction of being operated by one of the most decorated sommeliers in the US. There probably aren’t many people who know more about wine than Virginia in all of the Southeast, let alone Palm Beach, so you’re in good hands.
